Sunday, 25 June 2017

Hungarian sour cherry soup

Fresh picked cherries

I have a Morello sour cherry tree in my front garden that, most years, produces more fruit than I know what to do with. This year I asked online for ideas to use the surplus and someone suggested sour cherry soup, a Hungarian speciality.

I searched for recipes on line and found a huge variety — whole cherries or pulverised, warm or chilled, with or without alcohol. Many of the recipes include lemon juice and/or zest, but these tend to be using sweet cherries rather then the (not often available to buy) sour cherries I have.

I combined the best elements of several recipes to come up with this:

  • 400g Morello cherries
  • 2 cloves
  • ~1cm cinnamon stick
  • 100ml red wine
  • 200-300ml water
  • 25g sugar
  • 1 tsp flour
  • 100ml crème fraîche
  1. Stone the cherries and place in a saucepan with the cloves and cinnamon. Add the red wine and water to cover. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes.
  2. Blend the flour and crème fraîche in a small bowl.
  3. Work the cherries through a sieve, removing the cloves and cinnamon. Stir in the cream and flour and return to the boil. Whisk until smooth and free of lumps of cream. Simmer very gently for five minutes to thicken slightly.
  4. Stand the pan in cold water to cool the soup, then finish cooling in the fridge.
Serves 2.

The result was amazingly good. A smooth, slightly sour, soup that really got the taste buds going for the main course. I'll definitely be making it again.

Next time I'll try simmering the stones in water first, to extract some of their almond flavour. I'll also work some of the sieved cherries into the cream and flour to loosen it before adding back to the rest of the cherries.

A note about cherry stoners

For several years I used a traditional cherry / olive pitter that does one cherry at a time. This worked well, until its spring broke, but tended to spatter the kitchen with cherry juice. I now have a multi pitter from Lakeland. I can no longer find it on their web site, but it appears to be functionally identical to this "Lurch" branded one from Amazon. This does seven cherries at a time, and catches the juice, but is designed for large cherries. The thick prongs rip my small cherries apart, and the smallest cherries can get pushed through the supporting holes. Maybe I should try this "Vantiya" model instead.

Tuesday, 15 November 2016

Replumbing my toy traction engine

The steam valve on Wilesco toy traction engines (and steam rollers) is rather basic. It has a plastic lever, which is loose when cold, and goes from closed to fully open in less than a quarter turn, making it rather difficult to set the engine speed precisely.

I decided to replace it with a better quality "globe" valve to give finer control, and to move the valve to the driver's end of the engine. I also wanted to add a displacement lubricator to ensure the cylinder is always well oiled.

As Wilesco is a German company their models use metric threads throughout, whereas British steam models still use imperial sizes. I prefer to work in metric so bought all the metric fittings I needed from a German supplier Modellbau-Niggel. I was at least able to buy metric pipe from a British supplier, Macc Models.

Connecting the steam valve to the boiler

Rather than run a pipe from the original steam valve position to the driver's end of the engine I decided to move the whistle to the original valve position and connect the new valve to where the whistle had been. This would require quite a complicated bit of pipe bending with three 90° bends in close proximity.

I made a simple pipe bending jig out of washers, nuts and a bolt. Cutting away the side of one of the washers allows bends to be made in close proximity, as well as making it easier to remove the bent pipe from the jig.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

After bending the pipe and cutting it to length I soldered pipe nipples (or cones) to each end. As you can see, I used a bit too much solder on one of them.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

The completed globe valve connection.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

If you've browsed the Modellbau-Niggel web site you may have noticed that they don't sell a globe valve (or oiler) with 3mm pipe connections. I used their part number 310 425 which has an M6x0.75 threaded inlet and a 4mm pipe nipple outlet. I shortened the threaded inlet and then used a centre drill to make a seat for a 3mm pipe cone. I used a sleeve of 4mm brass tube to solder the outlet nipple to 3mm pipe.

Connecting the lubricator to the steam chest

The traction engine's "steam chest" uses a flared pipe connection with an M6x0.75 nut (or screw, as it has male threads) to clamp the flared pipe to a sealing washer. The pipe is about 3.7mm diameter, so I couldn't simply reuse the nut with my 3mm pipe.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

Instead I used part number 706 675 which is a good fit on 3mm pipe. I cut off one side and shortened the other, then filed off the thread at the very end so it fits the steam chest. Then I flared the end of some 3mm pipe.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

After bending the pipe and soldering a 3mm nipple to the other end the oiler was fitted to the traction engine.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

As with the steam valve, the oiler I used (part number 400 104) has M6x0.75 threaded connections on which I used a centre drill to make seats for 3mm pipe nipples.

The final connection

The last bit of pipework is much simpler, apart from sleeving one end to fit the 4mm outlet of the steam valve.

Replacing the Wilesco steam valve

Initial tests show everything is working as it should, and the new steam valve is a considerable improvement. I've yet to determine the optimum setting for the oiler's needle valve, so am erring on the generous side for now, giving it one whole turn from fully closed.

Saturday, 12 November 2016

Making a canopy for my Wilesco traction engine, part 3.

In two previous posts I discussed designing a canopy for my toy traction engine and committing the design to metal. In this post I show the final stages - painting and adding decals.

Replacement canopy for Wilesco traction engine

After filing away excess solder and sanding down all the brass parts I started painting by giving the entire canopy a couple of coats of etching primer from a spray can. To support the canopy during painting I re-used my support strut jig, opening up two of the holes to take M4 screws.

I forgot to take any photos during the rest of the painting. I used Humbrol enamels, thinned with white spirit. I found it quite difficult to get a satisfactory matt finish on the upper surface of the roof ("dark slate grey", no 224) but after enough coats and a gentle buff with a rag I think the result's not too bad.

Replacement canopy for Wilesco traction engine

I drew some lettering for the sides of the roof using the LibreOffice "oodraw" program, and then printed the result on an A4 sheet of water slide decal paper. (I also did some lettering for a simple trailer kit I've built.)

Replacement canopy for Wilesco traction engine

After attaching the decals there were a few bits of white showing around the edges. I touched these up with more paint after the decals had dried.

Replacement canopy for Wilesco traction engine

Replacement canopy for Wilesco traction engine

These two pictures show the canopy in place on the traction engine. I think it looks pretty good overall. The video below shows how easy it is to remove and replace, thanks to the magnets at the bottom of the support struts.

Replacement canopy for Wilesco traction engine